Cabernet Franc from Maryland... and 3+ wines to try

Napa, Burgundy, Marlborough, when you read these names, I bet you think of Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc. Over the years, one grape has begun to reveal itself, my opinion, as a reputation grape for Maryland, Cabernet Franc. Let me tell you a little more about the grape and then I’ll tell you some of the standouts.

HISTORY

First, some history. Blah blah blah France… blah blah blah Bordeaux… just kidding. Cabernet Franc is believed to originate in the Southwest of France. Records from the 17th century reveal it made its way north, finding famous homes in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley. Chinon is the famous region in the Loire that grows Cabernet Franc. In Bordeaux, while it’s grown in many places, the famous vineyards that make up the Right Bank have Cabernet Franc as the second most included variety in their blend, behind Merlot. As many of you know, Cabernet Sauvignon finds priority in the wines of the Left Bank wines and the three combine to make the majority of grapes used in the blends throughout the region.

Cabernet Franc bunch — Cabernet Franc grapes. Photo: UC Davis FPS

Interestingly, of the six main red grapes of Bordeaux, Cabernet Franc is the parent of three of them, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carménère. So, while Cabernet Sauvignon happens to be the more popular grape worldwide, it wouldn’t even be here if it weren’t for Cabernet Franc.

In Maryland, looking back through old newspaper articles, the oldest mention of Cabernet Franc being planted in Maryland was in 1978 at Byrd Winery. The first mention of wine made from Cab Franc was a Baltimore Sun article, in which the writer mentions that Montbray Vineyards 1985 Red Table Wine was Maryland’s first 100 percent varietal Cabernet Franc. Today, Cabernet Franc can be found at almost every Maryland winery.

GROWING

Cabernet Franc buds and ripens early, which is ideal in a climate like Maryland that receives a lot of rain around harvest. Maryland vineyards aren’t alone in recognizing that it grows well here. In Virginia, Cabernet Franc is their most grown red variety grown in the state. In a 2020 survey from the Maryland Grape Growers Association, Cabernet Franc was the most in demand and most planned to be planted variety.

Many people are more familiar with Cabernet Sauvignon. However, being related, the two grapes have similar traits. Both have the similar fruit, herbaceous, floral, and graphite flavors. In Maryland, Cabernet Sauvignon doesn’t get the length of season it needs to express its full potential. In the best years, Cabernet Franc grows very well here, producing a richer, fruitier tasting wine. In average years, the strong varietal herbaceous characteristics still express themselves favorably, albeit stronger. It is this specific varietal characteristic that makes Cabernet Franc stand out and could be a calling card, something to put Maryland on the map.

The vine has good vigor and produces medium-size bunches with berries that are smaller in size. In terms of terroir, best results are generally achieved on clay-limestone soils, but good results may also be achieved with sandy soils in the absence of water stress. According to ENTAV, there are just over 30 certified Cabernet Franc clones. In Virginia, they use clones 312 and 327, clones designed to make rich and structured wines. In Maryland, the clones I know of are 214 and 623. 214, originating from Bordeaux, makes aromatic, fine and structured wines. While the 623, originating from the Loire, makes more fruity, supple, and well-balanced wines.