Old Westminster Winery: A Visit

Old Westminster

1550 Old Westminster Road, Westminster, MD | oldwestminster.com

EXPERIENCE

We decided to visit Old Westminster on a very warm August day. My sister-in-law was in town, and we thought visiting a winery would be a great way to spend the afternoon. We arrived to find out that they recommend reservations, since they are only open Friday through Sunday, oops! It didn’t end up being a problem, as they had other options available to us. We ended up renting a cabana--a small group of outdoor furniture around a patio table, all underneath a shade-giving sun sail. It was very comfortable and gave an atmosphere of being the only people there, even though plenty of other parties were present.

I’ve been to Old Westminster Winery three times now over the past two years. Each time has been a better and better experience. Over the years, they have steadily improved upon the grounds, adding more seating and touches of luxury that really elevate the experience.

For the colder seasons, enclosures that look like greenhouses are erected on the patio to provide intimate group settings.

This time, Ashli, one of the owners, greeted us as we walked in. She took the time to sit with us, talk about their wine, and answer any questions I had. She is very friendly and approachable. One thing I have enjoyed about Maryland wineries is how often I've been able to see or meet one of the owners. Those conversations are always enjoyable, as I’m a wine nerd and they love to talk about wine!

Over the course of three hours we ordered three wine flights and several glasses after that. I personally enjoy flights, as they allow me to taste the differences side by side. In addition to the flights, we tried the Albariño and the Sauvignon Blanc Pet Nat. Turns out, the Pet Nat was a favorite--multiple extra glasses were ordered.

Outside of the large variety of wines, of which most every style of wine drinker will find something they enjoy, they have quality food and non-alcoholic beverage selections. They have an on-site barista making a various coffee drinks, pastries purchased locally, and pizza made from wheat grown on their own property. Additionally, they have gluten-free options available for those wheat-intolerant loved ones of ours!

THE VINEYARD/WINEMAKING

Throughout the years, Old Westminster seems to have made every kind of wine you could think of: white wine, red wine, rosé, orange wine, piquette, verjus, nouveau (carbonic macerated), pétillant naturel, and traditional method sparkling. They craft wine fermented in barrels, amphora, and concrete, and in traditionally-sized barrels as well as large foeders. They have undeniably brought innovation and elevated wine to Maryland.

Old Westminster both grows and sources grapes. They source from four other farms: Cool Ridge, Bohemia Farms, 78 Acres, and Six Wickets. They have their own vineyard in Westminster and a developing one, with much promise, in Clarksville, called Burnt Hill.

Much like Black Ankle, Old Westminster tries to be as natural as they can, attempting to implement as many biodynamic vineyard practices as possible. The vision of the vineyard manger (Drew) is one of regenerative farming. Their Burnt Hill vineyard is characterized as a polyculture, as they raise pigs, mushrooms, honeybees, heritage grains, and an orchard. They are currently in the process of becoming a Certified Organic farm. As it currently stands, there are only seven farms in Maryland that are currently certified, none of which grow grapes.

The Burnt Hill vineyards are planted on land that is around 50% silt, 30% sand, and 20% clay, and slopes of 8-25%. This means it is very well-draining and an excellent location for a vineyard. Planted there are Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Catawba, Regent, and many other hybrid varietals in a nod to local varietal ancestries. Many interesting things are happening here. Their website has a lot more information.

The home vineyard is 44% silt, 36% sand, 20% clay, and slopes between 3-8%. It's pretty similar, having only a tiny bit more potential water retention in the soil. Reading through the menu, we learn that at least Chardonel and Albariño grow here.

WINES

TL;DR (Less Detailed)

As I said earlier, whatever you like in wine, you can find it here. If I could propose a common stylistic theme coming out of Old Westminster, it would be a goal to make wines that have good acidity and restrained fruit flavors, such that they pair well with food.

Expect:

Ripe, but not cooked, fruit flavors

Juicy, but not sweet, on the palate (dry wines)

Bright, dry wines (mostly)

Fruit flavors, not so much vegetal flavors

Off-dry wines that aren't too sweet

TECHNICAL (More Detailed)

The following varietals are currently being used to make wine at Old Westminster Winery:

White grapes: Albariño 🥂 Grüner Veltliner 🥂 Riesling 🥂 Sauvignon Blanc 🥂 Viognier 🥂 Chardonnay 🥂 Chardonel 🥂

Red grapes: Cabernet Franc 🍇 Cabernet Sauvignon 🍇 Malbec 🍇 Merlot 🍇 Petit Verdot 🍇 Chambourcin 🍇 Syrah 🍇 Gamay

Old Westminster's menu does a great job of giving out just enough information for the wine nerd to geek out some. Here's the menu: MENU (disclaimer: they change their menu often enough that this link might break with future iterations).

The following are my impressions of the wines I tried while there:

2022 You Are My Sunshine

A sparkling rose that tasted of watermelon and strawberry. Made from Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It was dry and very refreshing on a hot day. I would drink this wine every day, it's very good!

2022 Salt

A wine made for pairing. Aptly named as it does have discernable minerality. The most recognizable flavor I got was of unripe pineapple. It had good acidity and will pair very well with food.

2021 Sauvignon Blanc

The acidity matches what I expect from a Maryland grown Sauvignon Blanc, a bit more round than crisp. The flavors however, were more typical to the varietal than expressions I've tried from other Maryland producers. Grass, grapefruit, ammonia were all identifiable. It was ok.

2021 Pepper

High acid, medium-bodied Cabernet Franc based wine. Feels rustic, old-world-esque. Shows the pyrazines and white pepper that we love in a Maryland Cab Franc. A little bit of Chambourcin is mixed in, and I could taste it. It's subtle, but distinct. I like the wine! Again, it pairs well with food.

2020 Hilltop Road

Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Syrah. Tannins that dry the mouth out in that wonderful red wine way. Just type fruit flavors of plum and dark fruit. Very enjoyable.

Tapestry, 7th edition

A blend of Syrah, Cab Franc, Cab Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot. My experience reads very different than how they describe their wine. For me, it was bright, high acid. Tasted of tart cherry on the palate. This is very different from the earthy, jammy, very ripe fruit flavors they describe. Drinking it right off the heels of the other red wines probably greatly effected the perception. You might get exactly what they describe if you drink it on its own.