Syrah from Maryland...and 3 Wines to Try

Syrah is a tricky grape to grow in Maryland. However, a small number of wineries grow it and make wines worth seeking out. In this post, I will discuss why growing Syrah in Maryland can be difficult, who grows it, and three wines to try.

Reasons Syrah is Difficult to Grow in Maryland:

1. Thin skin. This grape ripens late in the season, and in Maryland, the later in the season, the more likely that moisture could be problematic. Excess moisture (such as rain) will swell the grape, tearing the skin, allowing the precursors of rot to enter. The solution is well-drained soil, adequate airflow in the vineyard, and usually picking sooner than the winemaker would like. Additionally, a continental climate (e.g., Frederick, MD area) is better than a maritime climate (e.g., the Chesapeake Bay area). With that comes the next issue.

2. Syrah is extremely vigorous by nature. With Maryland having very fertile ground, Syrah will need a lot of attention in the vineyard to keep the vines under control or poor enough soil to keep it from growing too quickly. Also, soil type matters.

3. Syrah is susceptible to chlorosis. High pH soils, such as limestone, can weaken the vine, and in some cases, can prematurely kill the plant. Syrah fares better in rocky, shallow, well-drained, acidic soils, such as granite or schist mixed with clay. Unfortunately, there is a lot of limestone in the "slightly" less damp mountainous regions of the state. Maryland Geology Map

When the vine is left unattended, the overgrowth will shade the grapes from much-needed sunlight (slowing ripening) and reduce airflow (encouraging fungal disease).

Even the University of Maryland enology program doesn't recommend growing Syrah.

Syrah is capable of growing and making good wine in many places in the world. France, Argentina, and Australia (called Shiraz) all make wines from the grape, with flavors varying greatly.

Who Grows Syrah:

During discussions with the wineries that do grow Syrah, I've learned much but am unable to speak confidently to how many vineyards have Syrah growing currently. Catoctin Breeze and Black Ankle state specifically that they grow it on their estates, so I'll talk about them. At Catoctin Breeze, their vineyard is strategically placed on a steep hill, providing adequate water drainage and airflow (plus they boast of the constant breeze that comes down from the mountains). At Black Ankle, in addition to rolling hills, they have particularly poor soil. Out of the small number of wineries making Syrah wine, here are 3 wines you should try:

Flavors:

Syrah has typical flavors of dark fruits (blueberry and plum), can be peppery (peppercorn), and depending on the aging vessel, can take on flavors associated with oak. In Maryland, our Syrah is generally more fruit-flavored than peppery or earthy due to our low diurnal range (warmer temperatures at night keep the grape from retaining certain compounds that are associated with those flavors).