Six Wickets: A Visit

Six Wickets Vineyards

10819 Church Hill Rd, Myersville, MD | sixwicketvineyards.com

EXPERIENCE

Have you ever heard the saying, "Cream rises to the top?" It means that a good idea cannot go unnoticed for long, just as cream poured in coffee eventually rises to the top. I believe this adage applies to Six Wickets Vineyards; it is simply a matter of time before they will be recognized as a top winery in Maryland. As a matter of fact, several of the best wines in Maryland are already made using grapes that were grown in their vineyards! Of course, much of this may simply be my opinion and you may read this merely as a prediction. Think through what your favorite Maryland wines are, and as you read, maybe you'll see them in here. It was an overcast, cool autumn day for our visit. Not the depressing kind, but rather the ideal, cozy, picturesque kind. The clouds added depth to the surroundings and range to the leafy array of yellow, orange, and red. Six Wickets Vineyards is not far off I-70. In only a few miles, the property appears suddenly as you crest a hill. The winery is still in its infancy and tastings are by appointment only. The property is primarily vineyards, not really a winery to be toured. Tastings are given by Ed and Kathy on their screened-in porch overlooking the east-facing vineyard and adjacent valley. The overall experience is quite personal and unique.

The vineyard itself is prime real estate. The gentle slopes provide good drainage and are privileged to beautiful sunrises. Not too far away happens to be the old site of where Byrd Vineyards was established back in the 1980s. Byrd was, at one point, recognized nationally for their wines made with Cabernet Sauvignon. Whereas Byrd went under due to a regionally premature wine appreciation, I can't believe Six Wickets will do the same. Currently, Six Wickets is one of only a handful of vineyards/wineries that are past Frederick, and one of two on the north side of I-70 before South Mountain. According to a 2005 study, the University of Maryland Extension asserts there are many good potential sites for grape-growing in the area.

Upon arrival, we were immediately greeted by Kathy. Ed had been finishing up a few tasks in the barrel room before he was able to greet us. After a short time of pleasantries, Ed invited us to tour the vineyard. We jumped at the opportunity. As I said earlier, Six Wickets is still primarily a vineyard, and winemaking operations are slowly being built up. This aspect sets a visit here apart from other Maryland wineries. Whereas most wineries have and allow vineyard access, this was my first experience in which the vineyard manager takes the time and care to show great detail regarding the history of plantings and their philosophy of vineyard management.

THE VINEYARD

It's a common expression that wine is made in the vineyard. Simply by seeing the health of the vines, one can understand the potential for quality that can come from it. As we walked, I witnessed the vines that source the fruit for some of my favorite wines. I saw the vines that grow the Cabernet Franc for Loew Vineyards, the Albariño for Old Westminster, the Teroldego for Catoctin Breeze, and the Petit Verdot for Big Cork. It's generally understood that each cluster of grapes makes around a glass of wine. It was quite grounding, walking through the vines, to imagine that the vine I’m next to grew the grapes for the wine from a glass I recently drank, a vine that I can reach out and touch. Throughout the tour, it was clear the passion and enthusiasm Ed has for growing grapes. As we walked from the house/tasting room, he began by telling us about the process for finding the land, along with some of the intricacies required to find the right property. He mentioned working with Bubba Beasly, a local geologist that specializes in vineyard land management and surveying. Bubba was able to save Ed and Kathy a lot of money and headache right from the start. The first two properties they looked at had significant complications for grape growing. The first had poor air drainage, which would have made yearly frost damage a certainty. The second property was discovered to have poor soil depth and structure, which, among other things, would have kept the vines from growing healthy roots and having good mineral uptake. After finding this property, they consulted Lucie Morton for varieties to grow, and off they went. Having Ed tell us about who he worked with and how they helped inform decisions was a great reminder about how good the winegrowing community is in this region.

As we walked, Ed would point out the varietal differences as we came upon them. It was noticeable how the Cabernet Franc grew straight and orderly, while the Albariño was a little more "loosey-goosey." He pointed out how certain varieties required different grafting techniques and different trunk management. Ed showed us how they approach trunk management to ensure that the overall vine can survive if something were to happen to part of it. By happy accident, we scheduled this visit not knowing that the timing was such that all the leaves were still on the vines and autumn color was on full display. It was quite magical! The vineyard sits on an east-facing slope. Throughout the property, the slope varies from 3-45 deg. Few of the vines are planted on the most dramatic of those angles. The slope provides for excellent air and water drainage. This is very important in Maryland where moisture is abundant. Fog can further compound the moisture problem. Six Wickets' vineyards are placed high enough on the hillside that I assume the fog generally settles lower. According to online soil mapping databases, the land is majority silt and sand. Identified as prime farmland, my understanding is that the hillside placement is additionally important for the water drainage. The grapes that are grown on the property include: White grapes: Albariño Chardonnay

Red grapes: Cabernet Franc (clones 214 and 623) Merlot Petit Verdot Pinot Noir Teroldego WINES Being a small winery, the current wines for sale are an Albariño, Rosé from Cabernet Franc, and two Cabernet Franc wines aged in different oaks. Visiting wineries immediately post-harvest can sometimes lend to new wine samples. After the vineyard tour, and maybe because I had expressed interest in Cabernet Franc, Ed had pulled barrel samples of Teroldego, Petit Verdot, and two different clones of Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Franc clones 214 and 623 are grown on the property. Even grown on the same soil, the two clones taste different. We were treated to barrel samples of them both to allow us to experience the differences.

In forewarning, I chose not to take notes on the wines during the tasting, as I preferred to be more in the moment, given the environment. That said, the following will be overall impressions and memories of the wines.

Albariño At Six Wickets, Ed prefers to harvest his white grapes based on acidity. Although this may sacrifice some of the concentration of flavors, it is essential for the overall profile of wine for the desired wine. I personally have no complaints about this. This wine was enjoyable and wasn’t lacking flavor. It is a very refreshing wine, good to pair with many meals.

Rosé from Cabernet Franc I had purchased this wine from a local wine store in Frederick and reviewed it on my Instagram page, the image is that review.

Cabernet Franc I don’t know what to say about the Cabernet Franc, apart from labeling it as having the ideal varietal characteristics that I look for in a Maryland Cabernet Franc.

Cabernet Franc Slovenian Oak See above. During the tasting we were regaled with the story about why Ed and Kathy chose to age some of their CF in Slovenian oak, along with the story (and images) of their visit to the family that makes the barrels. The Slovenian oak does add something unique--my wife described the American oak as a bit sharper/spicier (it a good way), but the Slovenian oak as more elegant and graceful (while still maintaining CF characteristics). Both wines are worth drinking.

*A quick note about the Petit Verdot that I tasted: I will be purchasing this wine as soon as it comes out. The sample was pulled from wine only a few days after completed fermentation. It was soft, plush on the palate, and had good dark fruit flavors.